An Area Tour of the Peloponnese Peninsula
(excerpted from Matt Barrett at www.greecetravel.com)

When most people think of holidays in Greece they think of the Greek islands. The idea of all these islands, each different from the next, the whitewashed houses and beautiful beaches is an enticement to anyone. But lost in the commotion over Mykonos, Santorini, Rhodes and Corfu is the fact that some of the most beautiful and interesting places in Greece are not on the islands, but on the mainland in places like the Peloponnese. Name the first Capital of modern Greece. Give up? It wasn't Athens or Thessaloniki. It was Nafplion.

For many people, the Peloponnese is the true Greece and, to them, the narrow isthmus of Corinth is all that separates them from a world of Albanians, Vlachs, Bulgarians and Macedonians. The Peloponnese can be said to be the heart and soul of Greece and though it has been left off the tourist map that was especially painted for Americans, it is magnificent, and totally different from the islands. A place worth visiting on its own.

From Myceneae to Sparta to Mistra to the guns of Navarone, the Peloponnese has seen its share of history. This is where Paris stole Helen from King Menelaous and where Agamemnon set forth with his ships to Troy, only to be murdered in his bathtub by his wife when he returned. It is a land of rugged mountains, green valleys, the ancient games of Olympia, and a coastline with some of the best beaches in Greece. What follows is a description of some of the different regions.

(PREFECTURES) of the Peloponnese

PREFECTURE OF ARGOLIS:

Argos
Though the city of Argos, the regional capital, is a low key, agricultural town, it offers tourists a sense of a typical Greek town. There are interesting ruins in the area like the Roman ruins with its giant amphitheatre, baths and indoor theatre. The Fortress of Larissa has been modified by nearly every group that has occupied the area from the Byzantines to the Franks, the Venetians and the Turks. The nearby Sanctuary of Apollo and Athena and the Mycenaean necropolis are also within walking distance.

Mycenae
The Argolis Peninsula was the centre of Greek culture from 1600 to 1100 BC under the Myceneans, until the city was destroyed. The enormous stonewalls of the ancient city make one wonder how anything short of a nuclear blast could harm it. Because the stones were so massive, the Greeks believed the giant Cyclops must have lifted them, thus the term 'Cyclopean walls'. The ancient city is entered through the famous Lion Gate and contains the palace of Agamemnon. If you remember your Iliad you will know that Agamemnon was the brother of Menelaous, the husband of Helen, who was abducted by Paris and taken to Troy. The combined Greek forces under the command of Agamemnon took ten years to conquer the city of Troy. On his return home Agamemnon was murdered in his bath by his wife Clytimenstra who had taken a lover in his absence and was still smarting over the sacrifice of their daughter in an effort to gain favourable winds for the expedition. Their son Orestes then murdered her.

Nafplio
One of the most beautiful port towns in all of Greece, Nafplio is a collection of Venetian houses and classical mansions and the three fortresses of Palamidi, Akronafplia and the Bourtzi that is on a small island in the bay. It was the first capital of Greece after the war of Independence when the entire country was contained in the Peleponissos, the Turks controlling everything else. The citadel is actually three fortresses, built by the Venetians in 1714 and seized by the Turks a year later. For those eager to climb the 999 steps the view is worth it. Nafplio is a town of waterfront restaurants, outdoor movie theatres, piano bars, cafes and a folk music festival in late May and early June. The resort town of Tolo and the beaches of Karathona, Asini, Drepano, Plaka, Kadia and Iria are near enough to take up your days, awaiting the pleasures of the evening. There is a train to Athens and a hydrofoil to Spetses, Hydra, Poros, Aegina and by connection back to Piraeus (Athens). You can also make connections to points south.

Tolo Beach View

PREFECTURE OF CORINTH:

Corinth
The ancient city of Corinth, known at least by name from the Apostle Paul's talks to the Corintheans in the Bible, is now famous for its canal, one of the more impressive feats of 19th century engineering. Periandor originally conceived the idea of a canal through the narrow isthmus though at the time it was too much of an endeavor to carry out. Instead they devised a paved roadway that they used to haul the boats across on rollers. This method was used until the 13th century. The emperor Nero attempted to dig a canal but this chore was too much for him as well. A French engineering company finally built it in 1893. It is still a wonder to behold and if you walk to the middle of the old bridge that spans it you will know what I mean. Yes, it does shake but it has for years so don't be alarmed. Chances are it will not fall while you are on it. Acrocorinth is the Acropolis of Corinth, which rises up from the ancient city. It is the largest and oldest fortress in the Peloponessos. There are a number of shrines and temples including the Temple of Aphrodite. My good friend Stuart Thorne, a reknown archaeologist, has a special love for Acrocorinth and visits frequently, like a pilgrim to a holy shrine. Probably the most interesting part of the citadel is the entrance but the view from Acrocorinth is simply incredible and if for no other reason this site should not be missed. Though most of ancient Corinth has either disappeared over the years or been destroyed by Earthquakes there is still a temple to Apollo built in the fifth century BC. The Peirene Spring is said to have been a woman transformed by the tears she shed for her son who was killed by the Goddess Artemis. It still supplies old Corinth with water. There is a museum on the site as well. Next to the Lechion road that led to the ancient port is the garden of Apollo a courtyard with some restored Ionic columns. Modern day Corinth is an important city and transportation hub with a long attractive waterfront and a variety of shops, restaurants, clubs and theatres. The buildings are mostly concrete apartment buildings since the city was either destroyed or damaged by earthquakes in 1858, 1928 and again in 1981. Most of the action takes place around the large Platia Venizelos on the waterfront.

PREFECTURE OF LACONIA:

Sparta
When people think of the Peloponnese the name of Sparta comes to mind and of course the valiant Lacedemonians and their leader Leonidas who held the Persian army at Thermopile. Now it is a largely agricultural area with high mountains, beautiful beaches and small towns and villages all with their own charm. Formerly Athens' greatest foe and competitor, Sparta is now an agricultural city on a flat plain where the Evrotas River flows through it. Unlike the Athenians who built temples and massive walls, the men of Sparta were considered the walls and there are few ruins from classical times, but they include the remains of the ancient acropolis, the sanctuary of Artemis and the tomb of Leonidas, whose small band of Spartan warriors held the Persians at Thermopile. On nearby Mount Taygetos, there are numerous traditional villages, well worth a visit. The city of Sparta is modern with wide avenues and a big main square and lots of restaurants. It can get pretty hot here in the summertime but in the off-season it is an interesting place to be and the people are extra friendly.

Mistras
The nearby ruins of Mistras, which are being gradually restored, are worth the trip. Mistras was the central town of the Morea (Peloponessos) until the Turkish occupation in the fifteenth century. It was inhabited until it was abandoned in the 1820's when the Turks re-took much of the Peloponessos after Ibrihim Pasha's invasion from Egypt. The old city is rich in churches and is topped by a Frankish castle. There are houses and mansions and many of the churches have impressive frescos. The Pantanassa is a convent inhabited by nuns, the only people living in the city of Mistras today. The Perivlepto is a monastery built under a rock and contains impressive frescos. If you keep climbing through the ruins of the old city you will find yourself in the castle with a view of the valley below.

Monemvasia
The citadel town of Monemvasia on the Eastern Peninsula of the Peloponessos is Greece's answer to the Rock of Gibraltar. It's a walled city on the site of a giant stone mountain that rises from the sea, connected by a narrow isthmus. The village that is contained within these walls was in ruins twenty years ago but has now been restored by the Germans who bought it one house at a time. The modern town of Nea Monemvasia is full of tourists in the summer. The nearby island of Elafonissos can be expensive since it caters to wealthy
Athenians but the beaches are great, as is the seafood. North of Monemvasia is the town of Gerakas, which is approached by Flying Dolphin through a long channel that seems more, like a river. It was the primary source of the grey mullet eggs used at one time for tarama but which is now made from carp.

The Diros Caves
The Diros Caves are famous for their stalactites and stalagmites are said to extend as far north as Sparta. They were inhabited in Neolithic times and then abandoned after an earthquake. Rediscovered in 1895, exploration began in 1949. The caves contain an underground lake. The criticism is that for all the miles and miles of caverns and passageways only a small portion is open to the public. Still if you are nearby how can you pass it up. The whole area known, as Pyrgos Dirou is famous for its towers, some of which are hotels.

PREFECTURE OF MESSINIA:

Though very few tourists make it to the southeast corner of the Peloponessos it is not because it lacks beautiful beaches, charming port villages and impressive Venetian fortresses. It has all of these and much more. The closestmost tourists come to this area is by eating the famous olives from Kalamata. When an earthquake hit this town in 1986 more then 10,000 homes were destroyed but surprisingly many of its older buildings and the impressive 13th century castle still stands guard over the city. But Kalamata, despite the familiarity of it's name and the charm of the people is not a prime reason to visit the region, though if you are taking the train from either side of the Peleponissos, this is the last stop. After an hour or so in Kalamata your time is better spent in the little port town of Koroni with its lovely Zaga beach and its castle, or the fishing village of Finikounda, popular as one of the best windsurfing destinations in Greece, with a string of fine beaches, restaurants, hotels and campsites. The town of Methoni has a vast 13th century fortress surrounded on three sides by the sea and the fourth by a moat. Inside the fortress is an entire medieval town and you can literally spend hours wandering
around.

Pylos
The town of Pylos, one of the most attractive coastal villages in Greece was the site of the battle of Navarino which was not even supposed to be a battle but became the turning point in Greece's war of Independence when the British, French and Russian fleets under Admiral Codrington 'accidentally' sank 53 ships of Ibrahim Pashas combined Turkish, Egyptian and Tunisian fleets.

Though meant to be a warning for the Turkish ships to leave the bay the end result is that those ships are still there to this day and can be seen in the clear waters. Though an embarrassment for Britain the end result of this misunderstanding was that the Peloponessos was liberated and the Peleponessos became the nation of modern Greece. The town itself has a central square down by the waterfront and most life revolves around it. There are two castles; one on each side of the bay and nearby is the Mycenean Palace of Nestor one of the best preserved of all Mycenean palaces. Many of the frescos and artefacts found here are now in the archaeological museum in
nearby Chora.

To the east of Kalamata is the Messinian Mani with its clean pebble beaches, wooded slopes and rugged peaks, beautiful villages with cobbled streets and flower filled gardens and courtyards, castles, Byzantine churches and towers. There are campsites along the coast as well close to some of the nicest beaches in Greece. The villages of Stoupa and Karadmyli at the end of the Vyros Gorge is in the shadow of Mount Taygetos on the gulf of Messinia and is known for the wonderful trekking trails that enable those of sound health and
strong legs to explore the area in the way it was meant to be explored.